Part 2: What is the condition of workers and craftspersons in India?

Historically, most art and artisans have been dependent on kings and mercantile communities for patronage. After the coming of the British and other colonial private companies, the power and influence of India’s monarchs started lessening. The British also started pushing machine-made products manufactured in Britain. Hence, they would source raw material from India, make factory finished goods in Britain, and sell them in India’s market. As those industrial goods were cheaper than India’s handmade products, they started selling faster. India’s artisans became marginalized as a consequence and pushed into poverty. Because they were left without access to raw materials or a market to sell their goods to.

The situation did not improve much after independence as well. Artisans in India are still relegated to rural areas where they have little help from the government. Be it the Centre or State governments, which means that they don’t have the means to take up the traditional work full-time. This has led to a widespread erasure of India’s art and culture.

Artisan guilds also have begin to disintegrate. And many traditional art forms are lost as people move to different jobs. Over the past 30 years, the number of Indian artisans has decreased by 30%. And the vast majority of artisans operate in informal work settings.

The art and handicraft sector is the second largest employment generator after agriculture. According to the 2011 Census, there are over 68 lakh artisans in the country. Out of these 55 percent of them are women. Despite this, the country contributes to a meagre two percent to the global handicrafts industry. The National Informatics Centre attributed the dire state of the handicraft industry to the inaccessibility of funds, low penetration of technology, absence of market intelligence, and poor institutional framework of artisan groups.

The Glorious History Of Metal Artists

The metal manufacture in India has a glorious past. Archaeological evidence so far proves that the metallic culture in India is as old as the Indus Valley Civilization. The earliest non-ferrous metal used by men is copper, whose discovery and use brought about a revolutionary change in society. In Assam, one of the few states where Kansa is made, the metal culture is from the copper plate charter of Vanavalavarmandeva of the 9th century A.D. A bronze image of Lord Vishnu of the 11th century A.D. and the bronze image of Dashabhuja Mahishamardini Durga of the late Medieval Period. Additionally, the views put forth by the workers of brass metal production units indicate that irregular and insufficient supply of raw material is the main problem with production.

In “An Insight To The Bell-Metal Industry of Bankura, West Bengal, India,” a paper in the International Journal of Life Sciences, that the bell metal crafting involves a high production cost. The household economic profile of the bell and brass metalworkers revealed that most of them (45.83 %) belonged to the monthly income category of Rs. 3001–6000. Master artisans, constituting 12.5 % of the community were earning more than 9000 per month. Women are also a part of the carving activity. The data shows that the average monthly household income (Rs. 6062) and standard of living of the workers were miserable.

An Insightful Conversation

In preparation for this article, we had conversations with two sides of the industry, the producer and the consumer.

In our conversation with Lucky, a Kansa worker from Odisha. He recalls that the art had been in his family for generations. His father, who was also a Kansa worker, had passed on the knowledge of the craft to him. The craft breathes in a few districts around Odisha, like Kantilo, which is famous for Kansa work

He says that because of the decreasing demand for Kansaware, many people often leave this traditional work. And move on to different villages, towns, and cities in search of work that will pay more. Lucky seems to echo the sentiments of many craftspeople around India when he says that there seem to be no benefits in their line of work. Most people use steel, plastic, and ceramic now, pushing Kansa to the margins, leading to the impoverishment and livelihood erasure of entire communities. Lucky says that only old people are prone to using Kansa. One source of demand comes from ritualistic affairs. At Annaprasan (the first time a baby eats solid food) rituals, and other festivals.

During the conversation, he was if there are any benefits from the government that he and his family receives. He to that saying that their employment card (specifying that they’re artisans) does lead to some monetary help from the government, but even that has completely after the lockdown due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

The Continuation

Since the inception of the craft, Kansa-makers lived in tight-knit societies where they, as a community, took care of one another. But as the demand reduced, children moved on from their traditional lifestyle, leaving the older members with not only an economic but a socio-cultural problem. Elements of collective living remain through their union, the Kansari Samaj, but their strength is also eroding slowly.

In the initial conversation with my grandmother, Mrs. Bula Mukherjee, she recalls that her mother’s, meaning my great-grandmother’s generation was actually the one who used Kansaware regularly. Her views are essentially congruent to Lucky’s, meaning, she says that Kansa has ritualistic importance. Kansa utensils were part of her bridal trousseau when she got married. And it was a part of my mother’s during her wedding as well. While talking to Mrs. Leena Mody, an entrepreneur, and a homemaker, we came to know that she has been using Kansaware daily for lunch and dinner and she does not have any difficulties in using or washing the utensils. The immense benefit of using them far outweighs the hardships, even if there were any. During the COVID-19 crisis, one important benefit of using Kansa is that it is antibacterial and anti-virus.

According to Lucky, health education programmes at schools speaking about the benefits of eating in Kansa utensils could be a good way to encourage people to buy Kansa. Another way of marketing is to reach out to food bloggers, cooking channels, and culinary competitions to use Kansa utensils in their shows. This will encourage viewers to explore and buy Kansa and thus stimulate demand.

The Central Issue And Aatma Nirbharta

The main problem plaguing the artisan industry is the lack of visibility. The more investment goes into the industry, the more focus can be put on marketing, on financial analysis, on the branding of handmade products as desirable. The corporate gifting industry in the country has been growing at a rapid pace over the past decade due to the rising income level and aspirations of people. If this space is to artisans with proper government policies and subsidies, it will give a great boost to the industry as a whole.

To the path of “self-reliance,” currently being as “Aatma-Nirbhar Bharat,” supporting artisans is extremely important. Indian artisans have also because of a cultural shift in the Indian ethos where traditional arts and handicrafts have been left in favour of high-end European or American products (most of which is eventually in China anyway). In a race to give children a Westernized education, and “modernizing” ourselves, we have become rootless, and our artisans have suffered the most because of this shift in values. The erasure of art means the erasure of an entire culture. Self-reliance, as a nation, will come from the acceptance and support of our traditional art.

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Firstly, on the making of Kansa and its relationship with our health, according to both modern science and Ayurvedic principles. Secondly, on the conditions of Kansa workers, where they are, and their social and economic circumstances. Thirdly, we will discuss how the current discourse on sustainability. And the environment is in close relationship with the revival of Kansa. Also how we can rebrand it to suit the needs of the current consumer base, including younger people.

Part 1 What is Kansa and How Is It Made?

Kansa is a name of Indian bell-metal or bronze, which, in the state of Assam, it is known as Kanh. Kanchu in Kannada, it is used for cooking and eating utensils. Sarthebari in Barpeta district of Assam holds a unique place in the production of kanh utensils. In Assam, utensils of Kanh have many religious uses. The most unique utensils, bata and banbati, to give offerings and puja. Or to show respect to honored guests and dignitaries. Kansa is an alloy which is a 4:1 proportion of copper and tin, typically 78% copper and 22% tin. It is over three thousand years old, in use since the Golden Age of Ayurveda: the Samhita Kala, a testament to our heritage and our roots.

To make Kansa, copper and tin are heated together for 400 -700 degree Celsius to form bronze. The metal, now molten, is then made into sheets. Utensils are polished manually with traditional substances such as sand and tamarind juice. Kansa is a malleable metal in itself, and hence, the prepared alloy can acquire different kinds of finishes — matt or glossy, depending on the consumer’s aesthetic preferences.

Kansa and Our Health

Ayurveda Prakasha is one of the important ancient texts on ancient Indian Alchemy by Shrimad Madhava Upadhyaya in circa 16th-17th century AD, which provides ample statements about the health benefits of Kansa. In the Sanskrit alchemical work “ Rasaratna Samucchaya,” there is significant information about the healing properties on Kansa.

Kansaware plates, glasses, and cutlery used to be a staple in households across India, and if one is thinking of discarding plasticware because of its health and environmental aspects, Kansa is the best metal to which you should make the switch, because of its sustainable nature and health properties.

Metals like copper and brass react with sour and salty food to form chemical compounds which are harmful to our body. However, Kansa metal does not react, which is why it is safe to cook and eat in. In the 5th century, Ayurvedic scientist Charaka says that eating and cooking in Kansa utensils. Balance the body’s pH level. In Sanskrit, the phrase “ Kansyam Buddhivardhakam, “ refers to the belief that Kansa sharpens our intellect and calms our minds. Not only that, but it is also a metal which boosts energy as well.

Water Stored In Kansa

Water stored in Kansa pots does not go stale. According to Ayurvedic philosophy, water which is stored in Kansa for eight hours has the ability to correct and balance all three “doshas” present in our body. The tridosha theory says that our body contains “ Vata,” “ Pitta” and “ Kapha.” Each dosha, if unbalanced, can lead to specific ailments and health problems. For example, deranged “Vata” can lead to pain, causing gout or rheumatism; unbalanced “Pitta” can lead to digestion problems, and unbalanced “Kapha” can lead to flu and lung diseases.

Drinking and eating from copper vessels fulfils the requirement of important copper trace metals for the optimal functioning of thyroid glands. Copper also reduces inflammation and improves haemoglobin, since it has vital medicinal and healing properties, which the food or water kept in it acquires. It is the key component in the production of melanin helping in restoring healthy skin, and also reduces the wrinkling of the skin. Additionally, it helps in breaking down and eliminating fat, aiding in weight loss for people who want to lose weight. Copper, and therefore Kansa, also helps in cardiovascular health and reducing the risk of anaemia by regulating blood pressure.

Coming Up

Kansa is not only a metal which reflects our history, but it is also extremely beneficial for our health and wellness. A switch to Kansa is essentially a lifestyle change. For a healthier, calmer, and more joyful life, eating in Kansa can prove to be a catalyst. Call it Ayurveda, or science, or even the Placebo Effect if you are a sceptic, a switch to the bell-metal will have welcome effects on your life which you will not end up regretting in the future.

For the next article of this series, we will take a look at the people who create this beautiful metal, if they are getting their due, or if they are struggling. This article series’ aims is to create awareness amongst the public. That is because Kansa is not only metal, it is rather an experience, a culture, and a way of life.

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Part 3: Is Kansa A Sustainable Alternative?

Most households around India and even the world seem to be enamoured by plastic and other newer materials like ceramic. Currently, traditional metals like Kansa are being used less and less, despite their health and aesthetic superiority. This, apart from cultural disadvantages, has harsh environmental consequences as well.

According to the Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change, from the inception of plastic in 1950, annual global plastic production has increased dramatically from 2 million tonnes to 380 million tonnes a year in 2015. Scientists and researchers have already put it out there as a warning. India, on the other hand, is responsible for generating 9.46 million tonnes of plastic waste annually. Out of which 40 per cent remains uncollected, as per the recently published study by Un-Plastic Collective (UPC). It is a voluntary multi-stakeholder initiative co-founded by the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII), United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP). And WWF-India to help eliminate plastic pollution in nature and move towards a circular economy.

However, plastic is not the only contender here that we have to deal with. Even ceramic contributes to a large amount of non-biodegradable waste that is hard to recycle. Ceramic, unlike Kansa, is prone to breaking frequently.

The Havoc Wreaked

According to a 2014 report, the production of the global ceramic market stood at 13 billion square meters in terms of volume. Everyone has been talking about segregating plastics and other materials at the source and otherwise. But there is no account on how users can dispose of their broken ceramic wares. With the Pollution Control Board getting stricter with every passing year, this inert waste was increasingly causing a menace. Even though it takes millions of years for plastic to decompose, it does decompose (not to forget bio-plastics). While ceramic remains for an even longer time or perhaps forever. That is what archaeology has shown us.

Ceramic can also stain, and have other problems that take away from its capacity from being for a long time. Kansa, on the other hand, can be on from generation to generation. Cleaning it with a citric substance can make its shine last for a very long time. Thus, the longevity of Kansa makes it an extremely sustainable metal.

Aestheticism And Eco-Properties

The aesthetic properties of Kansa, which is a form of bronze, can incorporate it into a modern household with ease. Bronze is an aesthetically pleasing material that actually grows more radiant over the years due to the properties of its chemical makeup. Developing an incrustation, titled a “patina” through oxidation and years of use, this change is typically of high ornamental value. Bronze from copper alloys has bactericidal properties that can eliminate the issue of bacteria growth almost completely, with critical studies in the U.S. and Britain revealing that bacteria on copper alloy surfaces like Kansa are 99.9% after two hours at the latest. This proves that Kansa is a very “clean” metal, preventing the growth of bacteria on its surface and therefore preventing contamination by bacteria as well as building immunity.

Apart from being environmentally sustainable, Kansa is also to be of valuable property because of its prestige value, durability, quality, and above all its resale value even after breakage. Till recently, next to gold and silver ornaments, bell and brass metal articles are valuable household wealth. So when a person is investing in Kansa, they are not only bringing new tableware into their homes. But rather a source of wealth that they can reap in the future.

Kansaware is important in rituals as well as in the celebration of different festivals. Apart from these utilitarian and socio-religious bell metal items, are also with Kansa because of its sonorous qualities. From temple bells to cymbals, the beautiful sounds that Kansa produces is not by any other metal.

Kansa As A Home Décor

Modern, urban households have also accepted the sheer beauty of the traditional metal that enhances the aesthetics of their homes, through interior decorations items like small statues, kanh (bell used in office, educational institutions), photo frame, the frame of looking glass, tiffin box, badges, and decorative items like a banana tree, bunch of nuts, pen stands, flower vases, animal and bird figures are also some other interesting products of the industry. Some ornaments like bangle (a bracelet or anklet), chain (an ornament a series of links in a line), earrings (an ornament for the ear, kanbala) and pendants (an ornament longing on the neck, latkan) are also by the industry.

Once the glory of our households, they are now hidden under our apathy and desire to incorporate the shallow standards of “modernity” into our families. In this series, I have to bring attention to a metal that is “forgotten.”

Kansa, unlike a lot of other metals that might seem “convenient,” offers Ayurvedic health benefits that are unparalleled. From facilitating digestion to sharpening our intellects, from protecting us from bacteria to balancing our doshas, Kansa is a metal which, if used regularly, makes our health and our lives much better.

The Struggle And The Steps Towards Sustainability

Kansa artisans, or Kansaris, are struggling in the face of government apathy and decreasing consumer demand. With the disappearance of guilds and children moving away for better livelihoods. They are at the risk of losing their community heritage altogether. So, when you buy Kansa, you not only buy a product but rather. You support a community that is striving to keep a tradition alive. You are making a community self-reliant, being a catalyst towards an Atma Nirbhar Bharat.

And last but not the least, Kansa is a big step towards environmental sustainability. Along with a significant resale value, Kansa also has an advantage in which it can be by generation after generation, unlike plastic or ceramic.

As Peter Drucker said, “the best way to predict a future is to create it.” By buying Kansa, you are creating a future that is self-reliant, sustainable, and healthy.

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Has there ever been a time in your life when choices were easy to make. And paths in life were comfortable to tread? Was there smooth sailing in relationships with friends, loved ones or even in professional circles? If we listen to what the dictionary says, Thread the Needle means, ‘To find harmony or strike a balance between conflicting forces, interests, etc. Normally used to indicate the difficulty of doing so; also, sarcastically, for a failed attempt’. Thread the Needle Day originated from the idea of endeavouring to explore one’s route through a limited gap. Narrowed choices and confusing alternatives, for example, that on the top of a needle.

For many, there may have no phase in life, which represents a chessboard with black and white squares. Life is always grey in shades. Everyone faced dilemmas, where sound and timely decisions had to be taken.

A precious lesson can come to rescue in these times of duality, from none other than the humble thread and needle. No one even considers heeding to such an inspiration. While threading a needle, one ought to pass it through very close extremities without getting blocked.

The Needles, Threads And Life Lessons

The little needle offers many a reason for living life of decisive, incisive discrimination for an excellent outcome.

Firstly, life needs to be like a thread, which needs adaptation to the changing circumstances. The thread needs orientation in a position to pass through the eye without hindrance. Our conscience is the moral compass, and life’s temptations are like the eye of the needle. I remember an anecdote from the experience of the son of Louis XVI. The King was overthrown in a military coup. The son was abducted and emotionally tormented by confining to debasing surroundings of distrust, foul language and lewd distractions. Post-six months of torture, his adversaries expected him to give up the claim to the throne. They were aghast when they got a firm and confident reply from the boy, “I am prince, born to be a king, no matter whatsoever.”

Secondly, many a time, decisions have to be made, keeping in the larger picture and overall welfare. Threading through the eye of the needle requires that utmost concentration without delving into the result of the effort. Actions in life taken with full awareness of the present without consideration of outcomes. Or worries of the past are deemed to give focus and self-confidence.

Lastly, what counts in life and threading a needle is steadiness. Whether it’s in hand or in mind, it’s the balance that counts. When you ride a bicycle, how do you steady it? Simple, keep cycling. If you stop, you lose balance and have to alight. In the era of 5000 years ago, this dilemma caught up with a talented and courageous warrior in a decisive battle. He lost his balance of mind, and his bow eventually slipped from his hands. Arjun got enlightened by his Divine Companion and Guide, Sri Krishna.

The Literal Meaning

If we go by the literal meaning, Thread the Needle means using the thread to sew, stitch or create beautiful patterns on cloth with designs. Sewing has been one of the oldest traditions of India. As the clothing evolved in India, the use of sewing grew in various ways. Thread and Needles have been the most important and most essential tool for people involved in the industry. Embroidery is a rich legacy, and heritage offered to Indian culture.

The artisans embed lively expression through exquisite patterns and motifs on the fabric that often whisper tales of love and affection. This day belongs to our innumerable artisans, who with their imaginative minds, steady hands, deft skills and patient applications, bring out aesthetic wonders of creativity. Celebrating this day would mean to honour the traditions, culture and resilience of generations of artisan guilds who have kept the art alive in their hearts and expressed with their skilled hands.

Coming Together For Artisans

Considering the various interpretations of the phrase, Thread the Needle Day, the day is celebrated all across the world in multiple ways. Some take up sewing lessons while others resort to meditation and practise of yog postures. Many people take their sewing machines out and make something using it for their loved ones. But the ideal approach to celebrate Thread the Needle Day is by taking a gander at your life and checking whether you’re managing a circumstance. It occurs excessively frequently that we need to manage them, and much more regularly than the primary way out is to pick one side or the other. Thread The Needle Day helps you to remember the third, increasingly fragile way.

To celebrate the occasion, Bhavyata Foundation in association with Le’Mark School of Art brings you an online workshop on Embroidery Traditions on July 25.

Let’s join in and learn more about our ancient wisdom and tradition to celebrate Thread the Needle Day!

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Stitching: An Art Of Patience

Every single tiny stitch of a piece of embroidery craft is, most of the time, the creation of a woman’s fingers, twinged by the needle’s demands, her bowed head curving her torso into a C. They work day and night, incorporating their screams and silence, sweat and pain, into beautiful and extraordinary designs. The word “embroidery” has larger than life connotations to it. There is no option of undoing or redoing. Though nowadays there are methods like free-motion machine embroidery and computerised machine embroidery. It is still a process that demands an investment of patience and sense of beauty. Before computers were affordable, most machine embroideries were completed by punching designs on paper tape that then ran through an embroidery machine. One error could ruin an entire plan, forcing the creator to start over.

Kantha is a popular form of embroidery often practised by rural women. Kantha stitch makes simple quilts, commonly known as nakshi Kantha. Depending on the use of the finished product, they were known as Lepkantha or Sujni Kantha. The embroidered cloth has many applications including shawls, covers for mirrors, boxes, and pillows. In some cases, the entire fabric is covered with running stitches. Along with employing beautiful motifs of flowers, animals, birds and geometrical shapes, as well as themes from everyday activities. The stitching on the cloth gives it a slightly wrinkled, wavy effect. It has a different class of its own, and with improvements in technology. It is generating an aura, brighter and subtler.

The Banjara Embroidery

There is another exquisite form of embroidery, that is the Banjara embroidery of which Karnataki Banjara crafts and Lambani crafts are the most vivid and popular. The spirit of roaming from places to places reflected a sense of liberty in the Banjaras or the nomadic tribes. It was this sense of continuity and freedom that was reflects through the Banjara embroidery designs. The traditional craft has been hand down from generation to generation, and Banjara communities strive to preserve the artwork that they have inherited from their forefathers.

Despite their gradual absorption into the mainstream of life, the Banjaras continue to keep in touch with their age-old customs, traditions and beliefs. Their artistic creation ranges from bags, belts, purses to apparels and many more utility objects that meet the changing tastes of present-day connoisseurs. There are 14 types of stitches in Banjara embroidery. They are Kilan, Vele, Bakkya, Maki, Suryakanti Maki, Kans, Tera Dora, Kaudi, Relo, Gadri, Bhuriya, Pote, Jollya, Nakra. Apart from these, there are other Various types of Indian embroidery crafts such as Kashida from Kashmir, Phulkari from Punjab, Chikankari from Uttar Pradesh, Kasuti embroidery from Karnataka and so forth.

Final Thoughts

The history of embroidery has in itself a glimpse of “the private inner world” of women, as a chronicler of the Korean tradition puts it. Because it has always tended to flourish in female and feminine spaces, that is the home; it is a kind of secret. To embroider is to embellish, to furnish a piece of cloth with a pint of fantasia and thus be momentarily free. Thus embroidery becomes an oxymoron in itself, letting the caged concepts of the beauty of mind and fingers free as well as stitching them fixed, channeling them through a mind-forged path. In this Threading the Needle Day (Sui Dhaaga), let us celebrate the eternal beauty engraved in those artworks and the toil imprinted upon them.

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“Handloom” refers to the wooden frames, used by skilled artisans to weave fabrics like cotton, silk, wool, jute among others. It is a cottage industry in India, dating back to the Indus valley civilization. Even in ancient times, Indian fabrics were exported to countries like Rome, Egypt and China. Since colonization by European nations, India had turned into an exporter of raw cotton and an importer of machine-made finished goods.

HOW DID THE WEAVERS FALL IN THE FACE OF STRUGGLE?

British authorities resorted to violence and legal coercion to exploit resourcing of cheap raw materials for their textile industry. With cheap labour (since workers were extremely low-paid), mill-made goods also had a competitive edge over handlooms. These factors resulted in a complete loss of livelihoods first for the spinners, and dependence of handloom weavers on machine yarn.

THE BIRTH OF KHADI :

As yarn procurement from distant regions posed a logistical hurdle, yarn dealers and financiers became necessary. And as the average weaver had little credit, the industry fell more and more into the grip of intermediaries. Thus the independence of most weavers disappeared. And a vast majority of them came to work for a trader on contract or wage basis. Therefore weavers went from being the owners of their craft to being wage workers.

Despite this, the Indian handloom proved itself to be resilient. Gandhi, along with other leaders of the Indian self-rule struggle, and started the Swadeshi Movement. He also reintroduced hand-spinning in the name of “Khadi”. Every Indian was urge to spin the yarn using charkhas and wear Khadi. This was a significant turning point for the handloom industry, as people immolated imported clothes and chose to wear Khadi.

WHY ARE THE WEAVERS STRUGGLING NOW?

After years of flourishing, it is again facing problems due to the 1991 economic policies. The handloom sector had to face competition from cheap imports, and design imitations from power loom. In addition to that, government funding and policy protection also declined drastically. In comparison to artificial fiber, the cost of natural fabric has risen. This makes the prices of handloom products rise and the demand for it decreases. Unable to compete with cheaper poly-mixed fabrics, many weavers are quitting weaving and going for unskilled labour work. And many have been reduce to extreme poverty.

India’s weaving fraternity is of over four million weavers, including its allied production workers. It is the second-largest employer next to the agricultural sector. Out of 89% of the adult weavers, 49% are of the age group of 18 to 35 years, 21% are of 36 to 45 years, 15% are of 46 to 60 years, and 4% are of 60 years and above. This phenomenon is likely to be a big challenge unless the handloom sector attracts more young generation in this trade.

Quality Of Life

By nature of employment, there are 61% independent weavers. And 34% under master weavers private owners and only 5% under institutional work. Average earnings of the weavers are Rs. 3400 per month as against all India average of Rupees Four thousand Five hundred per month. And far below the wages as per the minimum wage act for an unskilled worker.

The quality of life of a handloom weaver is far below, compared to an untrained, semi-skilled or skilled worker of any organization. There is not much technology induction in the handloom sector due to the limited research and inherent scope. The traditional techniques are still most popular, resulting in the existing constraints remaining unresolved. This applies to pre-loom, on the loom as well as the post-loom stage. As a result, hand weaving remains labour-intensive, low productive etc. as ever.

IS THE TREND OF THE HANDLOOM SECTOR DECLINING?

The third handloom census (2010) indicates that the handloom industry of India is not in a very healthy state. The key indicators are alarmingly challenging for the sustainability of the handloom sector. With the apparent change of mindset from traditional to modernity, it is becoming increasingly evident that the handloom is likely to become a museum piece of the craft of history shortly. The decline rate of 7% per year in several weavers, during the past years is a clear indication of the sun-setting trend of the handloom sector.

On the positive side, the third census shows a rise in the number of handloom households, from Twenty-five lakhs in the second census to 27.8 lakhs; an increase of about 11%. Of the total handloom households, 87% being rural and 13% being urban. Overall, there is a gap, and this gap will create more demand, attracting more selective and passionate weavers to enjoy the genuine craft of the looms.

WHY WOULD YOU SWITCH TO HANDLOOM PRODUCTS?

Due to manual operations, several combinations are possible in handlooms with intricate designs. The functional properties like drape, texture, strength, wrinkle resistance, dominant stability etc. can be ingeniously manipulate. Through the use of appropriate designs, particular types of fabrics used, thick density, type of weave, type of fashion, and process employed in printing, handlooms are highly customizable and thus can appeal to everyone’s taste.
The clothes made from excellent and delicate material can be woven more safely on the handloom owing to the comparative lightness of jerks. The polish of the garments interwoven with gold or silver thread can be taken out by extremely frictional action of power looms.

On the contrary, handlooms are ideally suited for such work — clothes with multi-coloured designs most suited to handlooms. Garments with embellishment in the border and heading and entire body with delicate designs in various colours which call for individual schemes can be ideally woven on handlooms.
Due to the widely perceived need to check greenhouse gas emissions, the case for handloom cloth is becoming stronger by the day. If handloom cloth can be linked closely to organic cultivation of non-genetically modify cotton, its strength as eco-friendly cloth can become much more durable.

National Handloom Weaver’s Day

The Union government had declared August 7 as the National Handloom Day in July 2015 to generate awareness about the importance of the handloom industry. August 7 was chosen as the National Handloom Day to commemorate the Swadeshi Movement which was launched on this day in 1905 in the Calcutta Town hall to protest against the partition of Bengal by the British Government. The movement had aimed at reviving domestic products and production processes.

Handloom is a national treasure. When you buy a handloom, you’re not just buying a product. You are contributing to the history and heritage of your nation. Bhavyata Foundation takes upon the project of reviving Traditions of India with such a passion that provides simultaneous livelihood and lifeline to various art forms in India. We need the handloom the same way we need the wisdom of our forefathers. As it runs down through the generations, to our children and theirs, it teaches us the value and everlasting beauty of Indian culture and Tradition.

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Part One: What is bamboo’s history, and how does it influence culture?

Bamboo is an integral part of India’s culture and Southeast Asia, South Asia, East Asia, and the South Pacific. To some degree, it is also extended to Central and South America. And its products are boldly associated with India’s rural culture and many other Global South countries.

Its versatility gave it many name like “bamboo culture”, “poor man’s timber”, and “friend of the people”. Bamboo, like timbre, is a natural composite material with a high strength-to-weight ratio. In addition, this ratio is very useful for structures, which makes it a widely used construction material.

Bamboo: The Oldest Craft Cultures Known To Man.

In India, there are 125 native as well as exotic species belonging to 23 generations. The Bamboo forest covers an area of 10.03 million hectares, approximately 12.8% of the total forest area in the world.
It continues to thrive in many regions of India, for instance, in the alluvial plains to the high mountains. More than 50% of the bamboo species are found in Eastern India — Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, and West Bengal. Other areas rich in bamboo include the Andamans, the Bastar region of Madhya Pradesh, and the Western Ghats.

India has good sources of high-quality bamboo. Therefore Indian artisans have excellent raw materials to work with to create beautiful utility and luxury articles. The craft of bamboo cane, for instance, is a source of employment for thousands of craftspeople in India.

It is the most efficient natural resource as far as strength vis-à-vis cost. Above all Bamboo’s versatility is unparalleled; it is possible to mould into any shape for low-cost housing, handicrafts, decoration items including baskets, small sculptures, etc. Rural artisans of the country have shown sincerity and laudable efforts, which is a must in product making.

Bamboo: Making And Products

To make the products like baskets, the artisan gets the raw material storage nearby. Then they cut it to make straps, approximately about 3/4th inch wide and 10 inches long. Using this they make a base and the body for the weaving of the basket.

Bamboo products are no more conventional products. Bhavyata Foundation’s initiative to make products a staple in households has led to alternative products like sustainable bamboo lamps. Made by artisans in Maharashtra, and West Bengal, the lamps, for instance, will provide your home with beauty while they also provide a source of income to communities. Our festival offerings include Diwali “torans” and rakhis. Diwali and Raksha Bandhan are festivals that celebrate love, strength, and the value of community. In addition, on the path of being “aatma-nirbhar”, this initiative celebrates our culture, while preserving the local traditions.

The Beauty Of Bamboo And Other Merits

Besides art, eating bamboo is good for our wellbeing. Bamboo shoots contain phytochemicals that have antibacterial and antiviral effects in the body. In addition, they are a good source of dietary fiber and contain potassium, which is vital for a healthy heart.

The beauty of bamboo is about what it represents. From sustainability to the beauty of traditions, it encapsulates the idea of what we truly believe is “India”. Above all, the point of seeking alternative economies is to support our own. We believe in helping small businesses, nonprofits, and communities of workers who, for generations, have kept India’s culture alive. Bamboo are indeed the backbone of our art and aesthetics.

In continuation, the next articles will look into this very community. The creators of the products and the guardians of our culture. Where are the workers? What are their material conditions like? And in addition, what can we do to help them. In conclusion, an economy driven by conscious consumption can shape a better world. It can build us socially, economically, and culturally.

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Part 2: Who are the makers of bamboo products?

Many artisans have taken up bamboo as the livelihood source, because of a rich family or indigenous affinity. The artisans have acquired the skill for the bamboo handiwork from observing fellow artisans or from their ancestors. A deep understanding and high skill-set of indigenous knowledge are often reflected in the crafts that they produce. Thus making the craft a part of culture and heritage.

The average bamboo artisan earns anywhere between Rs. 1000 to 3000 in a week depending on the number of hours and type of products made. Thich means the total monthly income is around Rs. 4000 to Rs. 12000 at maximum. Usually, the artisan works 12–14 hours a day. Since this amount is not nearly enough to run an entire household, the average artisan has to resort to other means of finding an income, such as farming, livestock rearing, wage labour, etc. to meet their expenses.

The Growing Challenges

Bamboo craft and rural handicraft in general works in the unorganized sector. Because of significant infrastructural shortages, the artisans do not have access to a dedicated work shed, storage, or transport facilities. These act as impediments to the proper management of inventory and cost calculations. The artisans in the region, however, lack the financial capability for the necessary technological advancement. They also lack the source of gaining apt knowledge and use of new technology. This poses them with difficulty to meet the ever-changing market demands and rising prices of their daily needs items.

The rapid growth of settlements in certain areas has led to the razing of private bamboo resources to accommodate the land needs of the people. This has heightened the challenges of the artisans in sourcing the raw materials at the right time, adding to their work hours and the productivity of their existing activities directly affecting the income they generate. The local artisans lack financial knowledge and access to formal credit facilities. This forces the artisans to resort to borrowing from SHGs and local moneylenders at high-interest rates, increasing their financial woes.

The Coming Generation And Urbanization

With the rapid urbanization and globalization of markets, the entry of intermediaries the historical relationship between the artisan and the end consumer has broken down. The intermediaries act as an essential knot in the supply chain of bamboo crafts as market links of the artisans. However, often they pay the artisans only a fraction of the prices and keep the rest as their earnings. This can only ruminate as a lack of understanding of the real costs of production, or their ability to force the craftsmen, who do not have much bargaining power. The benefits of the policies formulated for the artisans never reach the last mile leaving out a large number of artisans to fend off for their own.

The next generation seems disinterested in continuing the profession. And the parents too prefer to push them for white-collared jobs. The reason for this being the low incomes and uncertainty associated with the production of handicrafts. Moreover, the parents have experienced the struggles of finding a market and deriving a fair price for their products; they naturally push their children towards white collared jobs in the service sector. The new business in this sector can turn the tables around.

Social entrepreneurship: Transforming The Circumstances Of Artisans.

Mrs. Samira Shah, the Director of Projects at Bhavyta Foundation, says, “Bhavyata Foundation has a long-standing relationship with Sampoorna Bamboo Kendra, Lawada (Melghat) since 2015. Lawada, a tribal village is in interior Maharashtra where our artisan brothers and sisters making beautiful Bamboo rakhis, reside in this inaccessible region of Melghat. Due to inadequate livelihood and limited means of living, they cannot even think about the amenities we enjoy. But they possess artistic sense; they have their essence of art, which they have preserved and reared for generations. We have a special place in our hearts for these artisans and strong bonds that connect us with them.”

In our conversation with Santosh Gaikwad, who works for the cause of these bamboo artisans, says that the artisans are on their way to becoming self-sufficient because of the success of the business. The initiative started a year ago in Vikramgad (Maharashtra), and after training the artisans and procuring raw material, were finalized. The project has now stretched to nine more villages and includes planting bamboo so that there is a steady supply of raw material.

For social entrepreneurship to be successful, consumers have to alter their consumption behaviour. Instead of buying unsustainable goods, it would be much better for us and our country to support local communities and crafts. Academics and environmental activists have also said that the best thing you can do for the environment is to buy local goods as much as you can. And think of it this way, when you buy from these artisans, you are not only purchasing a product. You are supporting a livelihood, preserving culture, and giving a secure future to our generations.

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Plans to protect air and water, wilderness and wildlife are in fact plans to protect man.
– Stewart Udall

Part 3: Is Bamboo A Sustainable Alternative?

From toothbrushes to utensils to bags, plastic has overtaken our lives. India’s plastic problem is a silent monster. A Central Pollution Control Board estimate, states that approximately 707 million metric tons of plastic products are manufactured in a year. It is also estimated that our country generates close to 26,000 tones of plastic a day. Worse, a little over 10,000 tones a day of plastic waste remains uncollected. The uncollected plastic waste eventually ends up in the natural environment: in our seas, oceans, or lands. A report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, states that by 2050, the amount of plastic in oceans will weigh more than the fishes.

The incredible thing is that more sustainable materials like bamboo can easily replace most plastic commodities in our households. Bamboo is an incredibly durable yet lightweight material, especially when compared to wood and steel. Since bamboo is technically grass, not a tree, there are no weak points along its length. This makes it stronger and more robust than the toughest hardwoods. Bamboo is a versatile plant that can be cultivated all over the world and thrives in harsh environments, from low wetlands to higher elevations in the mountains. With more than 1000 varieties, bamboo can be found in almost every area of the world.

Growing Bamboo For Sustainability

According to the World Wildlife Fund, 18.7 million acres of forest are lost annually to deforestation. As a replacement for hardwoods, bamboo provides a flexible alternative to reduce this number and to significantly protect our forests. When harvested, the roots can regenerate into new shoots that save time, costs and labor.

Labelled the fastest growing plant on earth, some species of bamboo might grow as much as three feet (1 meter) per day. Bamboo rarely requires replanting or even regular watering. Bamboo requires no agricultural chemicals to grow. Pesticides and chemical fertilizers deplete nutrients in the soil and put harmful chemicals into your plants, be with food, textile, or any crop.

Large-scale plantations can become effective ‘carbon sinks,’ i.e. areas designed to reduce carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. According to the World Bank, India’s carbon dioxide emissions per person amounted to 1,730 kg per year in 2014. Bharathi Namby, a scientist, says it’s only going to take five bamboo plants a year to make Indian carbon-neutral because each of them absorbs about 400 kg of CO2 a year. The plant is an “excellent scavenger,” he says; its roots are not below two feet, so it can absorb rich nutrients in raw sewage that flow untreated into the Yamuna and increase its biological oxygen demand. During the monsoon, the clumps will slow down the flow and reduce the risk of flooding downstream.

Eco-ethical Design And Cooperative Living

Set in a village near Ubud, Bali’s Green School recently celebrated its first decade of educating toddlers through teenagers about eco-ethical design and cooperative living. This tropical jungle campus of rugged bamboo pavilions has become a globally prominent display of one of this century’s main architectural trends, serving as the major renaissance in growing, cutting, handling, drying and laminating bamboo so that it can be used confidently for significant and near-permanent structures.

Only when utilized in raw form, is bamboo useful. In recent years, as the sustainability issue has become part of the mainstream market discourse, corporations have made it into a “trend” where they promote bamboo and other natural materials as part of their supply chains.

Supporting Locals For A Better Tomorrow

The best way to support sustainability and natural materials like bamboo is to buy from local communities and organizations. This in turn supports rural artisans. To promote eco-friendly rakhis, the tribal artisans of Lawada, Melghat have been making rakhis from bamboo. This innovative idea is helping the local tribal artisans to earn their daily livelihood. Making bamboo rakhi allows the artisans to earn around Rs 150 to Rs 500 a day.

Crafts like bamboo have been a part of indigenous cultures for centuries. And it is only right that we buy their products instead of from big corporations. More accountability associated with social entrepreneurship initiatives and more transparency about their work and business practices.

The UN sustainable development goals should be a significant part of all entrepreneurship, just like they are a part of Bhavyata’s initiatives.

The UN SDGs that we espouse are:
No Poverty
Decent Work and Economic Growth,
Industry, Innovation and Infrastructure,
Sustainable Cities and Communities
Responsible Consumption and Production, and
Climate Action.

With this, we come to the end of this three-part series in bamboo. From its wide variety of products, the livelihoods it offers people, to the sustainable nature of the material itself, bamboo contains incredible power. Bamboo is a part of a community’s heritage. The question of being “truly sustainable” also takes into consideration how we are trying to preserve our own culture. Are we running in a constant rat race to buy the newest, shiniest, fastest products, or are we slowing down to observe how the art in our country needs to flourish?

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Why do we need a plastic-free festival?

Over the years, doctors gave poignant warnings about the chemicals used in plastic. Today, we know that products made of plastic have a high probability of causing cancer, Alzheimer’s, Parkinson’s, infertility, and many other diseases. Still, we continue to serve food in plastic utensils to avoid the extra work of washing the dishes. Sadly, we keep choosing the plastic cups, plates, spoons, and bowls over the traditional kitchenware. In India, we treat our guests with great honour and reverence. We believe in “Atithi Devo Bhava” (A guest is God-sent). But, we are slow-poisoning our guests by serving them food in plastic. Therefore, let us take a pledge to go Green and Go Plastic-free in the upcoming festivals.

What Are The Alternatives?

Natural materials like leaves, flowers, lanterns and even bamboo can easily substitute plastic made decorations. At Bhavyata Foundation, we offer lamps and torans made with bamboo. They are very eco friendly and add beauty to your home. Apart from that, you contribute to the livelihoods of vulnerable communities that preserve India’s traditional craft by buying these products.

Are Natural Colours A Good Alternative To Synthetic Colours during Holi?

Synthetic colours contain harmful chemicals like lead oxide, copper sulphate, aluminium bromide and mercury sulphite etc. A recent study by Industrial Toxicology Research Centre in Lucknow gave a shocking revelation. The popular scarlet colour used during Holi contains a dye called Rhodamine B. However, this chemical is banned in many countries for use in cosmetics and food colouring as it possesses carcinogenic properties. In addition, ingredients used for making natural colours are turmeric (yellow), plant leaves (green), annatto (orange) and black carrots (pink).

Save Your Family from Harmful Chemicals this Holi

Synthetic colours that we use in Holi cause skin disorders like acute nail fold inflammation, aggravation of pre-existing dermatoses, abrasion, discolouration, and contact dermatitis, among others. Using those colours can also lead to extreme hair loss and dryness. The harsh synthetic colours are difficult to wash off of clothes. Understanding this problem, Bhavyata Foundation created natural dyes that are as easy on clothes as they are on the skin. In addition, these natural colours disappear after a simple wash and you can reuse the clothes you play Holi in.

Synthetic colours have a terrible impact on air, water, soil, biodiversity and our ecosystem as a whole. Above all, natural colours are eco-friendly, which means that you can play with as much as you want without suffering any “green guilt.”

Become A Light of Hope for Someone This Diwali

We partner with communities that are below the poverty line. These opportunities help them earn a dignified living. Our mission is to promote a sustainable lifestyle through conscious consumerism while providing steady income to the deserving communities. Let us lend a helping hand to these communities and our planet. In addition, do opt for natural gulaal this Holi.
Our festivals must be a time to reflect on how our celebration can be more compassionate, economical and environmentally friendly. A responsible celebration is a sustainable one. It starts and ends with us being a bit more conscious while shopping, becoming a conscious consumer. A profound Native American proverb says, “we do not inherit the Earth from our ancestors; we borrow it from our children”.

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